The spice of Goan life

The beach is the mot juste when it comes to Goa. Yet, travel away from the sands of Calancute and Baga, away from the bare flesh turning lobsterlike in the sun and the shacks which serve conveyor belt Xacuti and sorpotel, you drive through shady winding roads narrower than a samba dancer’s waist and longer than her legs. Coconut groves, emerald paddy fields and the gleaming white facades of Portuegese churches rearing up like monuments of a pidgin past. The wind has many smells—the salty odour of the sea, the husky scent of paddy and as you go deeper into rural Konkan, the smell of spices. Goa’s spice plantations are more than a detour from sun and surf—they are experiences of a culture that has been around before the first hippie filled his chillum beside the Baga. The spice farms grow a variety of crops: vanilla, cardamom, cinnamon, chilli, curry leaves, turmeric, cloves, ginger, black pepper and nutmeg, as well as mangoes, papayas, bimbli, breadfruits, pineapples and jackfruits. Situated in Ponda region of central Goa, the spice plantations promise exotic vacations that get you to touch your inner savage; climbing trees, playing with elephants and joining tribal dances. A sample for the spice tourist.

Savoi Spice Plantation (near Panaji and Ponda) The Savoi Spice Plantation is one of the oldest in Goa and the owners welcome their guests with generous Goan hospitality: a profusion of flowers and garlands as also  welcome drinks and snacks. An expert Goan guide will take you through the fields and groves of spice trees. The main crops here are cloves, nutmeg, stone star spice, pineapples, jackfruits and pammello—a cousin of the grapefruit, but with a sweeter flavour. The guides are knowledgeable about the various types of vegetation in the plantation, their history, cultivation methods and how to use them. The plantation also grows plants with medicinal properties and strong flavours. The adventurous are given the opportunity to play Tarzan on the branches of the betel nut tree, trying to pick nuts as you swing along. An authentic home-cooked Goan dinner with all the fresh spices and flavours of its coastal cuisine . And of course, feni if you want it. Folk dancing is part of the evening’s entertainment.

Sahakari Spice Farm (near Ponda) Here, traditional farming techniques meet modern farming methods so that the spice plants’ produce is as authentic as possible. Rural engineering has wrought some miracles with water conservation in order to replicate monsoon conditions. The owners  seem to have an almost missiionary educational zeal, feeding you with information on spice aplenty as well as Goan food. Walking along the plantation, you will see vanilla, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, ginger, chilli, curry leaves and pepper as well as learn how to use them in dishes and medicine. An enjoyable experience is the  performance of traditional Fugdi, Jagor and Dhalo dances by the women and children living on the farm. One thing to look forward: giving the the plantation’s three elephants a bath.

Pascoal Organic Spice Village (near Khandepar and Ponda) Verdant with thick groves, spice plants are cultivated in the gaps between the groves. The Pascoal plantation  grows coconut, cashew and areca nuts. The  place stands on the banks of a river, and getting on a raft or a peddle boat is a welcome change after traipsing through lush vegetation. The plantation restaurant serves traditional Goan fare in earthenware pots, coconut shell bowls and on banana leaves for an exotic coastal experience.